When wearing dress shoes, you have three primary socks to choose from a no-show, mid-calf, and over-the-calf.
This article will explore each of these sock types along with different types of dress shoes you can wear with them. By the end, you will know when it is appropriate to wear one particular sock over another.
General Rules to Follow
To always ensure that you look your very best, follow these basic rules when choosing socks to wear with dress shoes:
- Never wear athletic socks with dress shoes. Unless you are Michael Jackson, white socks and dress shoes will always clash. The material and lengths are different and will never look good together.
- No-show socks are informal wear only; think casual Friday, summer company barbeque, or a night out with friends. Don’t wear them when presenting to clients or attending a formal event.
- Over-the-calf is the most formal and is the safe choice for any dress shoe.
- Always match your socks to your pants, not your shoes. This will prevent your shoe and sock from appearing like an elongated boot.
- For patterns, don’t mix and match. If your pants have a pattern, then wear solid socks. If your pants are solid, then you can opt for patterned socks.
Types of Dress Shoes & How to Match Socks
When considering sock choice, the type of shoe you are wearing matters. There are many different types of dress shoes, with each having a sock type that will best complement it.
Oxford
Among the most popular variety of dress shoes, oxford shoes have a closed lacing system and are worn for various occasions, including work, smart-casual, and formal events.
These versatile shoes can be worn with a no-show, mid-calf, or over-the-calf dress socks. But what dictates the type of sock you wear will depend on the setting. No-show socks lend themselves best for casual to smart-casual settings where you can express your personality through your outfit. Mid-calf socks are good for the workplace or where all-day comfort is a concern.
Over-the-calf socks will be best for professional office settings where appearance is key and for formal events. Over-the-calf won’t require midday adjustments and will present well even when crossing your legs while seated.
| Setting | Oxford |
|---|---|
| Casual | No-show or mid-calf |
| Professional | Mid-calf or over-the-calf |
| Formal | Over-the-calf |
Derby
Derby shoes are very similar to oxfords, but their key distinction is the lacing system. Derby shoes have an open lacing system that is a touch more casual, lending themselves good for informal wear. Like oxford’s, a derby shoe can be worn with a no-show, mid-calf, and over-the-calf socks. Of course, the situation will dictate which sock type is best.
| Setting | Derby |
|---|---|
| Casual | No-show or mid-calf |
| Professional | Mid-calf or over-the-calf |
| Formal | Over-the-calf |
Formal Wear
Whether attending a black or white-tie event, shoes worn to these occasions will often be opera pumps or black oxfords. Over-the-calf socks are most appropriate as they will stay up for the duration of the event and never need to be adjusted.
| Setting | Formal |
|---|---|
| Casual | N/A |
| Professional | N/A |
| Formal | Over-the-calf |
Monk Strap
Clad with either a single or double strap design, with the latter being more casual than the former due to the extra buckle, monk strap shoes are suitable for casual or office wear only and not formal wear. As a result, the shoes are best with either no-show or mid-calf socks. Gentlemen can opt to wear an over-the-calf sock if preferred.
| Setting | Monk Strap |
|---|---|
| Casual | No-show or mid-calf |
| Professional | Mid-calf or over-the-calf |
| Formal | N/A |
Loafer
If there is any shoe more synonymous with no-show socks, it would be the loafer. Whether worn with a classic penny loafer or a luxurious Gucci horse-bit loafer, no-show socks ensure that you have a nice visual line between the shoe, ankle, and bottom of the pants. When worn in the office, mid-calf socks should be considered.
Lastly, depending on the aggressiveness of the hem on your pants, you may want to consider wearing an over-the-calf sock with a loafer. This will ensure that your shins don’t peek out of the bottom of your pants when sitting.
| Setting | Loafers |
|---|---|
| Casual | No-show or mid-calf |
| Professional | Mid-calf or over-the-calf |
| Formal | Over-the-calf |
Chelsea Boot
The socks worn with Chelsea boots may be determined by the outfit you’re wearing. Specifically, men wearing uncuffed pants, be it chinos, dress pants, or denim, should wear mid-calf socks. This will ensure comfort and prevent the cuff of the boot from rubbing against your lower leg while walking. Women that may pair a Chelsea boot with a skirt, shorts, or cropped pants often wear no-show socks. This will still provide comfort to the feet without blistering the heel or toes.
| Setting | Chelsea Boots |
|---|---|
| Casual | Mid-calf |
| Professional | Mid-calf or over-the-calf |
| Formal | N/A |